What a week...

So, this is the first chance I have had to blog since I left one week ago.  It has been an absolutely amazing week so far, completely full of surprises and nothing like I could have ever imagined. While it is absolutely impossible to explain everything that has happened in the last couple days, I am going to do my best.

My flight was from Toronto to London to Johannesburg, and finally after 32 hours of travelling, Sarah and I made it to Gabarone (with all of our luggage!). In London, we had about 5 hours to kill and we decided to do Downtown London in 20 minutes. We took the “tube” from the airport to Piccadilly Square and went to go see the sights. We had a blast, and it definitely beat sitting at the airport.

Arriving in Gabarone, I had no idea what to expect. The adventure of a lifetime was about to begin and I was open for anything. Mmapaseka, WUSC’s Assistant Program Manager (who is absolutely amazing and has shown us around all week) picked up Sarah and I at the airport. Another Students Without Borders volunteer, Teneille, was also picked up (she was actually on our 11 hour flight from London to Joburg but we didn’t know) and we went to the WUSC guest house, where we have all been staying for the week for orientation. Teneille will be staying at the guest house for her 3 month placement because she is working in Gabarone. The WUSC house is really nice and very secure, as you can see by the electric fence (it’s comforting knowing it is there, however the need for it is slightly concerning).  We also know that our alarm system works because we have set it off twice so far accidentally and had to deal with explaining who we are to security.

On the first day, we all went for lunch with the WUSC staff where we ate a traditional meal in a school cafeteria (the serves the community as well). I’d have to say the most interesting food was Bogobe, which is kind of like a porridge (only mushier) made from sorghum and sugar and it is eaten (traditionally everyday) soft in the morning and left out and eaten harder for lunch and dinner. It has absolutely zero nutritional value but it fills you up and is actually really good. The WUSC staff are all amazing, incredibly helpful and welcoming. We have had orientation at the office on Saturday, Monday and tomorrow (Tuesday) is the last day.

The second day, we went to the Immigration Office to file for our extension certificates. To get passport pictures taken, there were just people waiting outside the gates with a Polaroid and a white towel to hold behind your head. It seemed so strange to me, but honestly much less hassle than getting them taken in Canada. In the office, Sarah and I had a six year old boy ask if he could take a picture with us (because we were white) and was very excited when we said yes. Having white skin definitely makes you different here – whatever people think it means - higher status, wealthy, exotic looking, or just interesting...it attracts attention immediately. The Immigration Officer also asked me “where are your babies?” and after finding out none of us were married made a comment to Mmapeseka that maybe one of us should marry him. An interesting experience for sure.

We also met a group of Irish people who all work in accounting firms here and have been living here for a while. Gabs (the more common name for Gabarone) is actually quite small and somehow everyone knows everyone (especially ex-pats and foreigners). They invited us out for drinks and dinner and I was introduced to the social life in Gabs. Magically, your drink is never empty and if you order pretty much any hard liqueur it is automatically a double (and even that is understating it).  We went for dinner at an amazing Indian place called Ashoka Palace and again, the drinks were still flowing. After that...everyone drove home. I honestly think the hugest shock to me so far has been the drinking and driving here. EVERYONE does it (even many of the taxi drivers) and it is seen as pretty normal. They also drive on the right side of the car on the left side of the road (complete opposite).

Speaking of transportation, one afternoon of orientation was spent learning how to take public transit. Between special taxis, route taxis, combis, and busses...the system seems so complicated (but apparently you figure it out quickly). Two girls from the University of Botswana showed us around the city. The most overwhelming thing was probably the bus rank. It is kind of like a chaotic market with a mixture of vendors, all sorts of vehicles and lots of people. While walking through to find our combi, we had many people yelling at us (to get our attention), and many guys saying things like “oh, white girl, so beautiful.”  The girls assured us they are honestly just trying to be nice and generally interested in us because we very clearly stand out...not to mug us or anything (never the less, it is a lot of attention to have at once).

The girls also took us to Gaborone’s main shopping malls, Game City and River Walk. It is a very confusing city to me. It is incredibly modern in so many ways (so much so that I often find myself forgetting I am so far away). The mall has everything you could possibly need and more. All the stores are very similar to ones we have in Canada. There are stores identical to Shoppers Drug Mart (only these ones have way more stuff) and Bed Bath and Beyond. There is also plenty of restaurants everywhere and just so much selection. Honestly being in the mall, I felt like I was in Toronto.  That is, until a little toddler in his mother’s arms looked at us and said we were Chinese. His mother laughed and translated, and said that he doesn’t know the difference. On the way back we took a taxi all by ourselves back to house (well kind of..we didn’t exactly know the address...but we made it back to general area and walked from there).

 Adding to my confusion was my experiences on Sunday. The Irish people we met (honestly the most helpful people) invited us to go watch a rugby match at someone’s house. It turns out, a Peace Corp volunteer was house-sitting for a very high up American woman who is the coordinator of the Centre of Disease Control in Botswana and we were going to her mansion (probably one of the nicest houses I have ever seen in my entire life). We watched rugby, drank (starting at 8am), and enjoyed the pool in 35 degree heat. While I had a blast, it was certainly not the way I had envisioned spending my third day in Botswana. While some of the city is incredibly modern (Botswana is a middle income country), there are many low income to impoverished areas as well. The foreign volunteers and workers almost create their own mini sub-culture here, completely removed from the locals.  The challenge to balance both worlds seems to be difficult for many of the volunteers I have talked to. Throughout the day, I met many Peace Corps volunteers, some American Marines, more Irish people, South Africans and so many more foreigners. At some point in the afternoon there were probably about 40 people there, and only one was Batswana (however, she was married to an Irish guy). It is so surreal to me, but I can also see how it is very easy to fall into that lifestyle and spend every moment of free time like that because it is familiar and everyone is so helpful, trying to make sure you are comfortable in a city that is completely new.  At the same time, I want to throw myself into everything there is to know about this culture. I think that will be much easier to do in Ghanzi, which is much more rural and traditional.

Monday morning we had Setswana language lessons which I was definitely ready for (I hate not being able to understand a single word that is being said around me). A lady came in to the WUSC Office (on “Botswana time” – which means you can show up really any time you want to despite the time agreed upon....5 minutes, 30 minutes, an hour late and no one is too concerned) to teach us and she was fantastic! I learned that greetings are extremely important here (you greet everyone) and there are many things you have to do to show respect (don’t make direct eye contact when an elder is talking to you, always give and receive things with both hands, and when you shake hands your left hand has to touch your right arm). I now know how to say hello, goodbye, ask people how they slept, and how they woke up (translated that sounds funny...but it’s really a more polite way of asking how you slept), tell them where I am from, and what I am doing here (not exactly...I know how to say... “I am working here.”) The language is so different than anything I have ever heard and it is amazing. I am so excited to learn more. My favourite phrases from the day were:

Ga go na mathata – no problem (very similar to Ha ku na mathata..but that is Swahili)

Ao! Mathata ke eng? – Oh no! What is the problem? (in response to someone who has just told you they are feeling ill)

Dumela mma, o tsogile jang? – Good day maam, how did you wake up?

After the language lesson, we went for lunch at Nando’s in Game City (Swiss Chalet with a twist).  When driving back from lunch we saw a baboon along the road and also a herd of cattle stopping traffic.

Mmapaseka, Teneille, Sarah and I then went to the Mmokolodi Game Reserve to see the reptile park and go on a game drive. The reserve is 4000 hectares and while there are giraffes, elephants, hippos and jaguars we did not see any of these. We did see impalas, various antelope, an ostrich and a warthog, along with many different types of birds and reptiles. Our tour guide, Kenny, was incredible. He was one of the most knowledgeable, humble, and experienced person I have ever met. He told us everything anyone could ever know about each animal and more. For example, he explained that the tree below is very poisonous. If the sap were too get into someone’s eye, it would make them blind and if it was burnt for fire wood the smoke would choke you to death. He also talked about Botswana in general and offered to visit Sarah and I when he goes up to Ghanzi next month.

We stopped to watch the sunset just before the tour was over. The sun was blood red and so beautiful. When they said we were going to stop, it was still pretty high in the sky and in Canada it would take about 40 minutes to set. Here, it set in less than 5 minutes (you could see it moving) and it was unbelievably beautiful. Kenny told us that the sunsets in Ghanzi are incredible and completely different every night, so I’m very excited for that.

So that has been my experience so far. I finish orientation tomorrow and then I am off to Ghanzi. I’d have to say that my last five days in Botswana, more specifically Gabs, seem like a blur. It is nothing at all what I expected and yet I couldn’t imagine it being any more unbelievable. I have heard many mixed reactions when I tell people (both locals and foreigners) I am going to Ghanzi and the majority of people have reacted....well....with pity (or they have no idea where it is, and after I explain it...it is shock/pity). Many of them roll their eyes and say “Good Luck.” I feel like many people do not know why you would ever want to leave Gabs. Everything you could possibly need is here - shopping, restaurants, drinkable water, electricity, bustling night life etc. Their reaction I think has made me ever more eager to go there and experience it for myself. I am also anxious to meet my co-workers and start working with Gantsi Craft.  But all in all, this week has been amazing and I’m sure Sarah and I will be back to Gabs soon!